Turkey seeks EU protection for döner, Germans grill proposal
Turkey is seeking protection for döner kebab in the EU. This means that the kebab many people know might disappear in the future. The European Commission has presented strict requirements regarding the type of meat and marinade that must be used to prepare traditional döner.
In April 2024, Turkey submitted an application to protect döner kebab as a "guaranteed traditional specialty." This may affect kebab owners in Germany, their individual recipes, and customers. "The term döner refers to a traditional cooking technique, not a geographical area," argues Turkey.
Germany opposes this, arguing that "various preparation methods of this dish should be preserved," as it reflects the country's diversity. The European Commission has until September 24 to decide on this matter.
Recipe for traditional döner kebab
On the European Commission's website, you can find a recipe for traditional döner kebab. There are two main types of this product depending on the type of meat used: döner with red meat (beef and lamb) and döner with chicken. Döner is a traditional meat dish prepared by vertical roasting on a spit after marinating the meat (beef, lamb, or chicken) in spices such as black and white pepper, paprika, thyme, and salt.
Sometimes yogurt or milk is also added, although milk is not used when marinating chicken. Then the meat is skewered, interspersed with thin pieces of animal fat (e.g., tail fat or beef suet). Beef and lamb can also be minced and used as a mix.
Restaurants have received specific guidelines for preparing döner with red meat. To skewer kebabs, you need: 100 kg of meat from cattle at least 16 months old or lamb from sheep over 6 months old, 8-10 kg of animal fat, 2-3 kg of yogurt or milk, 2-3 kg of onions, 2-3 kg of salt, and 100-200 grams each of pepper, paprika, and thyme.
In the case of chicken döner, meat from chicken breasts or thighs is used, marinated in spices and salt, with the addition of yogurt (but without milk).
The meat is cut into slices 3-5 millimetres thick and the chicken into slightly thicker pieces (1-2 centimetres). After being marinated for at least 10 hours at a temperature of 4°C, the meat is skewered and slices of beef or lamb fat are placed between the layers of meat, forming a döner block.
The döner block is then cooked vertically in front of an adjustable stove, turning it for at least 45 minutes until the entire surface of the meat is evenly cooked. Various heat sources, such as natural gas, electricity, wood, or coal, are used during roasting. When the meat is ready, it is sliced into thin pieces 3-5 millimetres thick using a döner knife or a mechanical device.
Germany against Turkey's idea
If the EC approves Turkey's request, the popular kebabs in Germany with vegetables, turkey, and certain veal kebabs will not be allowed. The problem is that these are not mentioned in the application, which will cause confusion in the German food industry.
According to the Berlin-based Association of Turkish Döner Producers in Europe, the industry generates annual sales of about $2.5 billion in Germany alone and $3.8 billion across Europe.
