Real anchois: How to discern authentic anchovy fillets

Anchois is not just a fish in a can—it is a unique ingredient that can add character to any dish. But where does real anchois come from, and how can you recognize it so you don’t end up with a fake?

Anchois is a high-end product, and consumers are aware of this and are willing to pay more for it. Unfortunately, producers take advantage of this fact by packing fish into cans and jars that have little to do with real anchois, all under the umbrella of EU regulations. Find out how not to be fooled.

Anchois are simply fillets of anchovies marinated in salt. Anchovies are small fish that inhabit the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, the Black Sea, and the Mediterranean Sea. They should not be confused with sardines, although they are somewhat similar. Anchovies are smaller and have a tapered body, large eyes, and a forward-facing mouth. Sardines, on the other hand, are larger, more robust, and lighter in colour.

Anchois has been known since ancient times when it was a product consumed by the poor. Over time, it gained prestige and became an exquisite and expensive delicacy. Anchovies are among the least polluted fish by heavy metals, making them a safe choice even for pregnant and breastfeeding women. They are also an excellent source of valuable omega-3 fatty acids.

The highest quality anchois comes from anchovies immediately processed after being caught. The first step involves cutting off the heads, removing the guts, and thoroughly cleaning the fish. Next, the anchovies are placed in large barrels in layers interspersed with salt until the barrels are filled to the brim.

The next step is to press the anchovies in the barrel. This process ensures that the fish absorb the salt as effectively as possible. The fish must mature this way for 3 to 9 months. After this period, the anchovies are removed from the barrels and filleted before being placed in cans or jars and covered with high-quality olive oil. This well-prepared anchois is then transported to stores, from where it makes its way to our kitchens.

Interestingly, according to European Union regulations, not only anchovies can be used to produce anchois. Sardines, sprats, and even herring are also permissible. However, if you are interested in buying real anchois, look for those made from anchovies. Unfortunately, you won’t always find the English name on the packaging, so it's useful to remember that the Latin name for anchovies is Engraulis encrasicolus.