Parmesan pilgrimage: Discovering the artisanal cheese of Italy

Emilia-Romagna is a true Italian gem that entices with diverse attractions – from the beaches in Rimini to cities full of monuments, such as Bologna or Parma, and the mountainous landscapes of the Apennines. An integral part of visiting Italy is, of course, the cuisine, which in this northern region has a lot to offer. This is also where many staple products come from, which Canadians enjoy not only on vacation.

Emilia-Romagna is the homeland of Prosciutto di Parma and Mortadella Bologna, as well as Parmigiano Reggiano, the parmesan beloved in many countries. A visit to the plant where this exceptional cheese is made is a real treat, not only for its fans.

Tomorrow we have to get up early, the guide warned us at dinner. Parmigiano Reggiano is made seven days a week, but only in the morning. Anyone who likes to sleep in won't have the chance to see the production process, she added.

The history of this unique cheese dates back to the 12th-13th century when monks in the region of Emilia-Romagna began its production. The technique of its production has remained largely unchanged, similar to its ingredients, which do not include any enhancers or additives.

Just as nine centuries ago, Parmigiano Reggiano is made from cow's milk, salt, and rennet. The original is produced exclusively from milk from Reggiana cows and has a European Union DOP certificate (Protected Designation of Origin), which guarantees that every stage of production, including packaging, takes place only in the designated area of Emilia-Romagna (provinces: Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua to the right of the Po River, and Bologna to the left of the Reno River).

When I entered the plant's premises in the morning, dressed in white aprons and special caps, I saw not an assembly line but cheese makers in aprons who personally supervised the entire process and also used their own hands to mix, retrieve, and drain the cheese.

This is also guaranteed by the certificate—Parmigiano Reggiano must be produced using artisanal and natural methods specified in detailed production procedure specifications. Only calf rennet—obtained from the stomachs of suckling calves—is used in production. The most spectacular moment is when cheesemakers cut the cheese mass into wheels and hang them in cloths to drain.

From the room where the cheese is produced and drained, we proceed to the place where special bands are applied to it. These form its characteristic shape and also imprint the essential information – along with the production date. The cheese spends several days in them, and interestingly, it remains noticeably warm. Then the cheese goes into a brine where it is soaked for several weeks.

The place where the parmesan ages makes the biggest impression on the group, however. Wooden shelves stretch high up to the ceiling—this sight is a true paradise for cheese enthusiasts. The organizers of our tour seem to know this and have prepared a small tasting on a nearby table. The minimum aging period is 12 months, but Parmigiano Reggiano reaches a degree of maturity that fully expresses its typical features after about 24 months.

It can age for 36, 48 months or longer, gaining an even more intense flavour and aroma. We had the opportunity to taste cheeses that had aged for shorter and longer periods – there is no denying that parmesan becomes more refined over time. A finished wheel of parmesan weighs about 40 kilograms. Approximately 520 litres of milk are needed to produce it. It's easy to calculate that a minimum of 13 litres of milk is needed for a kilogram of cheese, hence its substantial price. The length of the aging process also adds to the final cost in the store.

It's worth noting that parmesan is not only delicious but also healthy. Its high calcium content in an easily absorbable form and the lack of additives and preservatives make it recommended for everyone, including children.

Parmigiano Reggiano is lactose-free because, during the production process, after 48 hours, all the sugar (lactose) is converted into lactic acid by lactic acid bacteria. Recent scientific studies have also shown that long-aged Parmigiano Reggiano (40 months) is a source of selenium and chromium. Selenium contributes to the immune system's proper functioning and thyroid function. Chromium helps maintain normal blood glucose levels.