Turtle soup: From luxury indulgence to controversy

Turtle soup, also known as "mock turtle soup," has a rich history dating back to the 18th century. At that time, turtle meat, especially from green turtles, was considered a delicacy and often appeared on the tables of aristocracy in Great Britain and the United States. However, making authentic turtle soup required significant financial resources and access to fresh turtle meat, making it available only to the wealthiest.

In the 19th century, as the popularity of turtle soup increased, cheaper and more accessible alternatives to turtle meat began to be sought. This led to the creation of "mock turtle soup," where turtle meat was replaced with offal, calf head, or calf trotters. In Poland, especially during the interwar period, a version made with veal tongues became popular, closely resembling the original turtle soup in both taste and consistency.

Turtle soup, although now associated with exoticism and luxury, in its "mock" version was a common dish that enjoyed popularity for decades. Thanks to a simple recipe, we can recreate the taste of this forgotten dish and feel like we're at an elegant party from a hundred years ago.

Ingredients:

• 4 veal tongues,
• ½ calf head,
• 2 litres of water,
• 2 carrots,
• 1 celery,
• 1 onion,
• 3 bay leaves,
• 3 whole allspice berries,
• 1 tablespoon of butter,
• 1 tablespoon of flour,
• 3 tablespoons of sweet red wine,
• salt and pepper to taste,
• nutmeg,
• juice of 1 lemon.

Preparation:

1. Thoroughly wash the tongues and calf head, boil in water with carrots, celery, onion, bay leaves, and allspice for about 2 hours.
2. Remove the meat, peel and cut into cubes, melt butter in a pot, add flour, and make a light roux.
3. Gradually add the strained broth, stirring to avoid lumps.
4. Add the diced meat, red wine, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
5. Simmer on low heat for 15 minutes, serve with croutons or bread.

Once considered a symbol of luxury and refinement, turtle soup now raises many controversies. The main reason is the protection of turtles, which in many regions of the world are endangered species. Hunting green turtles, a key ingredient in the original soup, contributed to a drastic decline in their population. As a result, many countries have enacted strict regulations banning turtle hunting and the trade of their meat.

In most countries, including Europe and Canada, making turtle soup from turtle meat is illegal. These regulations aim to protect marine and land species that have been overexploited.

In regions like the Cayman Islands or Belize, where green turtles were a traditional food source, some communities still prepare the soup, often under special permits. In these places, turtles are also farmed, allowing for limited consumption of their meat.